One of the joys of finding hidden gems in Nashville’s local immigrant restaurant scene is the thrill of the hunt. A lot of these places aren’t right on a main thoroughfare. You’d drive right by some of them, not even noticing they’re there.
King Tut’s at 3716 Nolensville Rd. near the Nashville Zoo is one of those places. There is a sign, but it’s jumbled in with a lot of other signs. Pull into the parking lot and at first you just see two nondescript one-story strip office buildings. But look straight ahead and there is King Tut’s tucked in the back with all its riotous color.
King Tut’s is a food truck that doesn’t move. It’s decorated with lively Egyptian symbols and attached is an inviting covered patio also embellished with colorful banners and twinkling overhead lights. And at the window of the truck is owner Ragab Rashwan, originally from the area where King Tut was born. He’s informally known as Rocky and if you’re having a bad day just spend a few minutes in conversation with him. You’ll perk right up.
He makes what I would call elevated Middle Eastern food. The regular menu is basic and features names you already know if you eat a lot of food from the region – falafel, chicken shawarma and lamb gyro. But all of it is more deeply flavored, more confidently spiced and served with condiments out of the ordinary.
The falafel stands out because in Egypt it is made with fava beans instead of the better-known chickpeas. The fava beans give the interior of this deep-fried vegetarian fritter an intense green color and extremely fresh taste. Ask for one of Tut’s flavor-packed sauces to go with the falafel. There’s a traditional white garlic sauce, a creamy hot sauce and a spicy green sauce reminiscent of Middle Eastern zhoug, a cilantro-based sauce.
The lamb gyro is a step up from the kind you see shaved off a spit and piled into pita bread. It’s thickly sliced and highly spiced on the exterior, almost like a brisket. It’s served over yellow rice with a refreshing carrot salad and marinated red cabbage. The chicken shawarma is marinated overnight in yogurt, which helps to tenderize it, and a complex spice blend before being grilled to add an additional smoky flavor.
The fava beans return in the fanciful falafel waffle. If you think the best part of a falafel is the crispy shell, this dish dials it up by 10 because every edge gets crisp in a waffle iron. The waffle is topped with a scoop of homemade hummus, nutty with tahini sauce and lifted by lemon juice.
Serving a baseline menu lets Rashwan get creative with a lot of his specials. You won’t find these every day, but on some days, you might find lamb merguez tacos, grilled branzino, pita burgers or baklava.
While the weather’s good, take advantage of King Tut’s beautifully tricked out covered patio. It’s sturdy enough to double as an outdoor restaurant and tucked away out of sight of busy Nolensville Road. It’s that extra touch that makes the thrill of the hunt just a bit more rewarding.
Catherine Mayhew is a former restaurant critic for The Charlotte Observer, cookbook author and master BBQ judge. Follow her @thesouthinmymouth on Instagram to see what she’s eating and email her at food@mainstreetmediatn.com with suggestions on your favorite restaurants and food trucks.
